Though his four-decade-old cluster of dining rooms may not be the buzziest anymore, Piero Selvaggio's flagship remains a centerpiece in the Italian scene here. With a menu informed by a native's fluency and vision of a meal as a harmonious whole, the place has too many personal touches to be deemed old school. Chef Tommaso Tarantino's orbs of spinach and ricotta gnudi that feel lifted from a home kitchen might precede spatchcocked chicken diavola with asparagus gratinati. His shrimp-stuffed calamari in oregano broth are a pleasing reminder that not everything gains by being grilled. Growing more assertive about his Sicilian roots (order anything with mullet roe bottarga), Selvaggio reveals a bit about this background with a salad of orange, fennel, and black olives --what you might order beneath an arbor near the Palermo waterfront. --From LA Magazine, November 2015